Natural vs synthetic cosmetics - can a cosmetic be 100% natural?

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In the discussion about „natural” and „synthetic” cosmetics, the conceptual and methodological distinction is crucial: marketing terminology often simplifies technological reality. From a cosmetic formulation point of view, we are talking about the origin of the ingredients (plant, mineral, animal or laboratory-synthesised), on the methods of their processing and – equally importantly – on how the manufacturer declares and documents the „naturalness” of the product.

Norma ISO 16128 (parts 1 and 2) was created to unify the language and methodology for assessing „naturalness” of raw materials and finished cosmetic products. ISO 16128 it provides a computational framework — it assigns naturalness indices to individual raw materials and suggests how to combine them into percentage shares of the product, but this is not a mandatory certification or an unambiguous „natural = better” label. The standard serves rather for transparency and comparability of manufacturers' claims.

Is „100% natural” possible, and what would that mean?

In advertising terms, „100% natural” sounds good, but from a technical point of view it runs into difficulties:

• many plant extracts undergo extraction and purification processes (physical or chemical), which affects the classification of their „ origin ” in the context of ISO 16128;
• microbiological safety and product shelf life usually require additives (e.g. preservatives, stabilisers), which can be essential to ensure the product remains safe for use throughout its stated shelf life; see microbiological tests
• raw materials of a fully „natural” origin can have high quality variability, which makes it difficult to ensure consistent product efficacy and safety.

Therefore, from the perspective of an R&D laboratory, it is more practical to speak of a documented percentage of naturally derived ingredients (in accordance with ISO 16128) than an imprecise slogan „100% natural”.

ISO 16128 – what you need to know

The standard consists of two parts:

• ISO 16128-1: definitions and classification of ingredients by origin and description of methodology (e.g. natural origin index),
• ISO 16128-2: calculation methodology for ingredients and finished products (including methods for assigning indices and calculating percentages).

The methodology provides for the assignment of a naturalness index to each raw material (a value from 0 to 1) and the calculation of a cumulative product indicator by the weighted summation of the shares of individual ingredients. This tool facilitates transparency: the manufacturer can demonstrate how they arrived at the declared „naturally derived” percentage. At the same time, the standard does not impose a single threshold that would define „naturalness” as a legal category.

Market certifications – COSMOS, ECOCERT, NATRUE

There are several significant certification schemes operating on the market which, in addition to assessing „naturalness”, also take into account other criteria (raw material origins, manufacturing practices, ingredient restrictions, supply chain pathway):

1. COSMOS — an international standard developed and supported by several certification bodies (e.g. Ecocert, Soil Association). COSMOS offers two main labels: COSMOS ORGANIC i COSMOS NATURAL, and its requirements include minimum shares of organic ingredients (for „organic”), raw material processing rules, ingredient list transparency, and limits on certain auxiliary substances. COSMOS is widely recognised on the market and has extensive technical guidelines.
2. ECOCERT (Greenlife) — one of the first and best-known certification bodies. ECOCERT creates and implements standards (including under COSMOS) and offers accreditation for raw materials and products. As a certification body, ECOCERT evaluates, among other things, the origin of raw materials, cultivation methods (for organic ingredients) and the compliance of production with sustainable practices.
3. NATRUE — standard focusing on the authenticity of natural cosmetics and raw materials; NATRUE classifies ingredients into several categories (natural, derived natural, nature-identical to a limited extent) and applies restrictive exclusion lists for certain groups of substances. The organisation also maintains a factsheet and position papers on the interpretation of ISO 16128.

In practice, manufacturers often use ISO 16128 tools to internally calculate naturalness indices while simultaneously applying for COSMOS, NATRUE or ECOCERT certification to obtain an external, reliable mark for the consumer.

How should an R&D laboratory approach the topic of „naturalness”?

1. Raw material documentation: collecting technical data sheets and origin documents (raw material declarations, sustainability statements) and analysing the raw material processing procedure is the basis for assigning correct indices in accordance with ISO 16128.
2. Security and stability: the assessment of physicochemical stability and microbiological risk should drive decisions on the choice of preservatives and carriers. The pursuit of a „as natural as possible” formulation must not come at the expense of user safety.
3. Communication transparency: If we claim that a product is „X% of natural origin”, we should be able to document the calculation methodology (e.g. in accordance with ISO 16128) and specify which ingredients contributed to the result.
4. Recognition of the value of synthetic ingredients: laboratory-synthesised ingredients (retinoids, peptides, certain UV filters, preservatives with a documented safety profile) often make it possible to achieve specific therapeutic results or ensure product safety. The laboratory should view „origin” through the prism of function and safety, rather than an ideological „natural vs synthetic” divide.

Conclusions – practical recommendations

• Don’t promise „100% naturalness” without solid evidence. It is better to communicate measurable indicators and rely on documentation.
• Use ISO 16128 as a transparency tool, and not as a certificate in itself. The standard facilitates consistency in communication and calculations.
• Certification option (COSMOS, ECOCERT, NATRUE) it is valuable for the consumer market — it enhances credibility and facilitates communication, but it entails additional procedural requirements and costs.
• Strike a balance between „naturalness” and safety and efficacy — the laboratory should select ingredients based on risk assessment, safety profile and regulatory requirements, rather than solely on the „natural” label.

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