Kojic acid in cosmetics - new regulations

Kojic acid is a popular ingredient used in cosmetics for its brightening and anti-ageing properties. It is particularly valued in skin whitening and hyperpigmentation-reducing products. However, there have recently been new regulations regarding its use, which may affect the cosmetic market.

Properties of kojic acid

Kojic acid is a natural chemical compound derived from the fermentation of various fungal species such as Aspergillus and Penicillium. Its main action is to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme key to melanin production, leading to a skin brightening i reduction of pigmentation spots.

Thanks to its properties, kojic acid is used in cosmetics designed for:

• reduction of hyperpigmentation and pigmentation spots,
• skin brightening,
• counteracting the effects of ageing,
• improve overall skin tone.

New regulations on the use of kojic acid

Due to the growing interest in kojic acid in cosmetics and concerns about its safety, regulatory authorities in Europe and around the world have decided to introduce new restrictions.

The European Commission for Consumer Safety (SCCS) conducted a safety assessment of the ingredient and concluded that the use of kojic acid in cosmetics should be limited to a maximum concentration of 1% in skin care products. Previous studies have suggested that prolonged use of high concentrations can cause skin irritation and potentially affect the health of users.

In accordance with the Regulation Commission (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 [amending Annex III]. The date of application of the new regulations is:

• marketing ban: 1 February 2025
• ban on making available to the market: 1 November 2025

Impact of regulating the use of kojic acid on the cosmetics industry

New regulations force manufacturers to adapt cosmetic formulasso that they meet the legal requirements. In practice, this means:

• the need to reformulate existing products,
• adaptation of labels and consumer information,
• greater emphasis on the search for alternative brightening substances.

Some cosmetic manufacturers have already started to introduce new technologies, such as kojic acid derivatives or other natural extracts with similar effects, in order to continue to offer effective products while complying with regulations.

Summary

Kojic acid remains a valuable ingredient in brightening and anti-ageing cosmetics, but its use is subject to new restrictions. The introduction of the regulation aims to ensure consumer safety and minimise the risk of adverse reactions. Cosmetic companies will have to adapt their formulations, which may result in the search for innovative skincare solutions.